I have a dear friend who likes to travel “Bigger Life”-style – she doesn’t just drop in and out of a city or town, she stays – at least a month at a time to experience the rhythms and culture of a place. Her most recent monthly adventure was to Lucca, Tuscany – a town I’ve also visited several times but never for more than a few days.
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This town is often (thankfully) overlooked by crowds of tourists, but it is a gem. Over a nice Italian dinner a few weeks ago, we shared notes on what we’d recommend to people considering visiting Lucca. Here’s our Top 10.
Eat terrific food.
Lucca is filled with high-quality restaurants that highlight local specialties. One of our favorites is Trattoria Da Leo, where we both drooled, remembering their saffron risotto with zucchini and their version of fried chicken (pollo fritto) with vegetables. I also really enjoyed Osteria Baralla – attentive service, terrific atmosphere, and a delicious farro vegetable soup that eats like a meal.
Ride a bike on the ramparts.
You’ll hear lots of bike bell-ringing in Lucca – everybody rides a bike! So why not be like the locals and rent a bike (we used Punto Bici) for a half-day, tour the town or hang it on top of the town rampart walls? The old part of Lucca is encircled by 500-year-old walls, once military fortifications but now the base of a 4-kilometer-long pedestrian/biking pathway. To rest, pull over and sit along the walls for countryside views or gaze town-ward at the many palazzos and churches.
Climb the towers.
Like many prosperous Italian towns, Lucca used to have many towers, but time has left only a few standing. The most interesting (and easiest to climb) is Torre Guinigi, once part of the home of a wealthy Luccan family – it’s interesting because of its rooftop garden of trees. Amazing views of the surrounding area can be had from up here, so get your camera out. More good photo ops are at Torre delle Ore (Clock Tower). There is an admission to both, but it’s well worth it and the exercise.
Visit the unique and beautiful churches – inside and out.
Italy is known for its church architecture and art; Lucca has some of the most beautiful. The exterior of the main churches, the Duomo di San Martino and Chiesa di San Michele in Foro resemble elaborate tiered wedding cakes, at least to us. The intricacy of the carving is amazing. At the Basilica di San Frediano, the exterior mosaic over the door is breathtakingly vivid. Inside the Duomo is one of my favorite sculptures, San Sebastiano, by Matteo Civitali (15th century). Also, check out the very different Last Supper (Cenacolo) by Tintoretto, where the placement of the table is on (what was) a very controversial diagonal. Or, if you’ve never seen an “incorrupt” saint (not decomposed), wander into San Frediano to see Lucca’s favorite saint, Saint Zita, lying comfortably in her burial gown. A bit gruesome, but she’s in astonishing condition considering she died in 1271. Each April 27, they hold a big festival in her honor with flowers, candies, and cookies.
Do some shopping.
Lucca has some beautiful shopping for its size – it’s big enough to have all the national brand stores on Via Fillungo but also small enough that local merchants and artisans are well represented. One of our favorite local jewelry artisans, Marrakech, is in Piazza dell’Anfiteatro – a gorgeous bracelet was purchased here. I also make Antica Bottega di Prospero a destination for gourmet souvenirs and well-dried cannellini beans (come home with a few pounds).
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro has good artisans’ shops, and maybe something interesting is happening in the square.
Take in some music.
Lucca has a long musical history and is most well known as the birthplace of composer Giacomo Puccini. Concerts are always taking place, whether in the Teatro del Giglio (concert/opera house), town squares, or churches. There are fantastic summer and winter festivals with free and paid admission options. We attended a free candlelight concert of choral singing in one of the smaller churches – magical!
Go to the Saturday Market.
We both love the town morning markets in Italy – we can easily spend the whole morning sampling fruits, cheeses, and porchetta and trying on flimsy shoes and dresses. Lucca’s famous (and substantial) Saturday market is the typical Italian market – a mix of local foods and flowers, bulk housewares, and cheap fashion. The stalls go up at 8:00 next to the Stadium outside the wall on the east side of town. It held only until 12:30, so get there before the crush at 10. Also, every third Sunday of the month, a fun antique market is held in the square in front of the Duomo.
Live locally in a great central apartment.
My friend rents apartments when she travels, and she couldn’t speak highly enough of this terraced apartment in the center of the old town, close to all the sights and amenities. And affordable, considering how spacious she said it was.
Stay at a B&B in the historical center.
I like staying at B&Bs that offer the right combination of comfort, privacy, history, and… a good breakfast. In Lucca, my choice is La Boheme. Enter at an unassuming door on one of the narrow medieval streets, and on the upper floors is a very hospitable reception area. The rooms and ensuite bathrooms are large, by Italian standards, and quiet. The breakfast options include eggs and meats, not just the usual carbs. And the staff are helpful and friendly. After a good night’s sleep and a good breakfast, step outside the door right into the heart of Lucca.
Take Italian lessons.
When traveling, my friend likes to learn local languages, so she highly recommends the Lucca Italian School. She praised the quality of the instructors and the activities. Complimenti! Enjoy Lucca!
