I absolutely love Istanbul. It’s a city full of stunning architecture, friendly people, historical sites, modern museums, fantastic food, and endless things to do. And I’m seriously considering a return visit in a week or two. Meanwhile, I will squeeze my personal experience into this short guide to Istanbul for those who are interested in visiting.
I stayed in the old centre of Istanbul, where some buildings were constructed in the year 400. Every time something is built, ancient ruins are discovered. After a quick tram trip across the Golden Horn, I was thrust into a modern European city crowded with young people and filled with shops, bars, restaurants, cafes and museums. A quick ferry ride and I was in Asia where the street markets smelled of fresh fish and you could find every fruit and vegetable imaginable.
Guide to Istanbul: Costs
Istanbul is a very affordable city, but it’s on the higher end for Turkey. Sultanahmet’s historic district is the most expensive since it caters to tourists. A beer will cost you 5 Lira and a meal will cost about 20 Lira. Travel over the Galata Bridge to the Taksim Square area, and you will save money on food. The locals hang out in this area, and the restaurants are much more affordable. A beer will cost you about 3 to 4 Lira, and I had some great meals for about 12 to 15 Lira.
Guide to Istanbul: Food
As I mentioned, the fish sandwiches at the docks at Eminonu are my favourite food. They’re cheap (4 Lira) and delicious. Three boats sell these sandwiches, and so do a bunch of guys in their stalls along the wharf. The food is safe and delicious.
There are also great restaurants in the Taksim Square area. I spent a few nights at a rooftop bar/restaurant called Balcon. The view is impressive, the food is delicious, and there are few tourists. We happened upon the place by accident one night, and it was the best find of the trip.
And I have to recommend Antiochia, a restaurant right around the corner from Balcon that serves some of the most delicious food I’ve ever tasted. Call ahead for reservations as they have been written up in the New York Times and are trendy. It was my splurge meal but well worth it. A meal will cost about 50 or 60 Lira (30 to 40 USD.)
Guide to Istanbul: Sightseeing
The Blue Mosque is terrific (and free) and worth an hour or two. The Hagia Sofia is breathtaking, and you will need a couple of hours to explore it. It costs 20 Lira to enter, and be warned that huge buses of pasty white tourists unload in the mornings. I recommend going around 3 PM for an hour or two.
Topkapi Palace was beautiful and exciting and cost 15 Lira. I spent another 10 Lira for an audio guide and felt like that was well worth the money. It helps tremendously to know what you’re seeing. Gulhane Park has fantastic sea views and lush landscaping just outside the palace.
Taksim Square was my favourite area in Istanbul. Its European architecture is lit with hundreds of twinkle lights. The modern stores (you can find Starbucks, Benetton, Mango, and more) are filled with shoppers. There are cafes, bars, and restaurants full of people drinking beer and chatting, so don’t be surprised when some Turks practice their English with you. Don’t miss the homemade ice cream served on every corner – it’s fantastic.
On Sundays, the neighbourhood called Ortakoy is an open-air market on the sea. People from around Istanbul come to enjoy the morning with a big brunch. Definitely try the baked potatoes and waffles. Imagine a glass-covered ice cream counter where you look inside to choose your flavours. Instead of ice cream, imagine toppings for a baked potato – cheese, beets, butter, olives, beans, meat, veggies, etc.
To get to Ortakoy, take the tram to the last stop called Kabatas and then you can either walk or take a bus. To ride the buses in Istanbul, hand the driver 1.5 Lira when you board.
Uskudar is a town on the Asian side of the city and is easily accessed by ferry. A ride is also 1.5 Lira and takes about 10 minutes. Wander around this quaint town with its outdoor markets and see every type of fish, fruit, and vegetable you can imagine. There’s a beautiful mosque on the water and a nice park to enjoy.
Guide to Istanbul: Transportation
The trams are super easy to use and very cheap. You will see ticket machines that say Jeton at many stations. If the station doesn’t have a machine, look around for a kiosk where they sell newspapers. You will see a sign for Jeton. A ride on the tram is 1.5 Lira (no matter how far you go.) You can insert coins or small bills (5 Lira or 10 Lira only) into the machine. First, insert your money and then click on the blue button to select more tickets and the green button to dispense the ticket(s). Your change will come out in coins, which is very handy. You will want to use coins often. Your tickets are little plastic buttons and can be red or blue (they’re the same). You put the plastic button in the machine as you enter the tram station and are on your way.
Guide to Istanbul: Museums
I enjoyed the Archaelogical Museum next to Topkapi Palace, but after about 2 hours, I was burned out. However, they have tons of Roman sculptures and fascinating information about the history of Istanbul. It cost 15 Lira and was worth the visit. I also visited the Contemporary Art Museum in Taksim Square, but it’s not really my thing. I just don’t get contemporary art, but the museum is free, and when a heavy downpour struck, complete with thunder and lightning, it was an excellent place to take shelter.
Guide to Istanbul: Sleeping
I stayed at Antique Hostel in Sultanahmet and had a great time. The hostel is run by a very entertaining group of guys that know how to have fun. The rooftop bar is great; someone plays live music every night. I made a bunch of new friends here and really enjoyed myself. They kept the hostel very clean, and the morning brunch (included) was excellent. I thought it was well worth the $17 per night.
I hope this information is helpful to anyone thinking of visiting Istanbul. You can find a little of everything there; there was so much more that I didn’t have time to see.
